Відео

how wide is the cross bars that has your mounts on? nice trailer and awesome job, thanks for sharing

What gauge superstrut did u use please

I did something similar for a kayak trailer. Some of my kayaks were longer so I extended the tongue with a 2" square tube. One of the great things about a Harbor Freight trailer is how easy it is to get it registered.

You gatta be an electrician😊

This is impressive. Awesome work!

looking at ideas to haul sit on tops, would two kayaks sit side by side fine (with proper pvc bunks for them to rest ontop of the struts.

Great fishing kayak. Good storage and is very stable. I am 250 lbs and this is no problem for me.

I just built something similar for my utility trailer and will probably post a short video on UA-cam. You were my inspiration. Any objection to me adding a link to your video in my post?

How were the bolts secured? Didn't see any nuts or anything

Thank you for a clear & concise video

Dumb AF. Convenient you didn't even show yourself beating the FK out of the spindle threads. Also.... That's NOT "shipping grease" like everyone has been saying for the last few yrs & you're just repeating. It's hub & bearing grease. If you don't trust it fine, clean & repack to feel good about it. But know what you're doing & talking about before making a video 🤡

Was looking to buy that trailer and was wanting a solution just like this. Thanks.

This is incredible! I need a build video I want this so bad.

Could you just mount those to the trailer frame and hold 2 kayaks?

Thanks for this video, now I know what to do!!!

If i want to replace the wheel hub.. what could be my possibilities?

This video is spot on! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise! My only question is would you mind sharing what “j- hooks” you are running; my only worry is the ones that I currently use will not “wrap around” the strut for a secure mount. Thanks again!

First, many thanks for taking the time to show us how to do it right. The instructions say nothing about getting the bearings out. But, it looks like they added a highlighted section saying that the packing grease (blue) should be removed thoroughly. I'm thinking that the problem some folks had with used trailers was that removing the packing grease was never done and the heat and water just glued that rear seal to the hub. I know my buddy was telling me that you don't have to clean and repack those new bearings. But I've seen enough UA-cam videos to know better. I've got some good Valvoline Moly grease. My rear seals won't be stuck to the hub.

that is not packing grease, it is lithium high temp/high preasure grease... you only should add more grease to the hub, and not bother doign this

Best diy trailer, thank you!

How do you reinstall the inner bearing...it wont seem to go on the axle collar, or seat

Smart and cost effective design. Good use of materials and leaves plenty of room for modifications. Nice video.

The grease zeark my neighbor said could not get gun to fit on I watched video and will have to show him that there is packing grease

well build 👍🏽

Are those j racks sufficient to support heavier fishing kayaks of 12 ft or more?

Great conversion! Is there any reason the J-frame kayak holders couldn't be mounted directly to the trailer, without being elevated? (I only need to haul 2 kayaks). I'd like to make it as simple as possible. Thank you!

The manual from the manufacturer needs to be more clear on the grease that comes with the trailer. It doesn't specifically say to remove the "packing grease" although several videos from owners claim that is what needs to be done. Someone not seeing those videos might just assemble using the "packing grease" and consider it mission complete. I'm also confused about the 45 mile an hour limit and whether that is just a standard tire limit and buying a new tire would be better, or if there is some limitation on the overall trailer structure and bearings.

Hi Ben, it’s been a few years. How about an update?

Very nice design. Thanks!

Great video! I was going to use a punch to get rear seal Out. One out of 2 of my hubs came with the wrong size seal. Your way is much better. Also dont forget your cotter pin in the castle nut. Castle nut goes on just over hand tight for anyone wondering👍

How wide is it?

Hey, Awesome Video, Would You Happen To Have A Lead On The Axle Seals? I Found A Pair Like Yours But I Need Thinner Ones With Same Inner And Outer Diameter . The Stock Ones Are Probably Half The Replacement Harbor Freight Ones I Found.

What do you spend building the rack

Thank You. Very nice (and very clean!) work and just enough info without any unnecessary information (or barking dog or crying babies!). I never thought of taking a complete spare. I think I will do that on my boat trailer going forward. Great insurance!

I would like to see a pic of it loaded. Looks great. What size kayaks do you put in it?

Thank you for your video! I was able to copy cat your design, but modified it slightly, adding wood base & raising the height to 20” between wood and kayaks for storage underneath for retractable seats & kayak paddles & camping gear. I also added the end caps for the superstrut because I could see myself getting scratched from the exposed cut metal. Super solid & barely moves indeed, thank you for sharing!

I'm having difficulty finding kayak carriers that fit more than 1.5 inch. What brand is yours?

Out of all the x4 kayak build videos, yours was the most economical and simple. Great video thanks for sharing.

It looks like you could fit another 1-2 kayaks laying flat under that contraption you built as well. Might be worth installing some sort of eyelet or mount to secure them to.

Can you provide the part numbers for the brackets you ordered from McMaster Carr?

Great build, thanks for sharing! I am going to incorporate this onto my trailer!

Nice and clean, I like it. Still running the same setup today or have you improved it? Thanks for sharing Ben

Old School sometimes you won't need the washer on the castle nut just the nut and pull.

Question: is it really necessary to fill the hub with grease using the zerk fitting? Seems like a waste of grease that is not doing anything. I have several videos that shows guys pumping full the hub and then filling up the dust cover. Why?

Thank you!

Well done, mate-- I've been searching for a way to move 5 kayaks at a time, and this looks like a real solution, with the fifth riding down below the other four, I suppose that would do the trick.

how does it do at highway speeds ....55 to 65 mph?

Solid work mate! McMaster-Carr is a great source for building just about anything. Looks good! 😎👍🏼

My two cents and experience since it wasn't as easy as your video made it appear to be for your situation . Bought a used 10yo HF light duty version. Prior owner said it was used 'maybe 5 times' in that time. It is extremely clean and paint is virtually like new so I don't have reason to doubt it. After removing the outside bearing I tried your method to remove the inside bearing. It didn't work because the flat washer was larger than the hub hause so the hub would not travel over the washer in order to make impact on the face of the inner bearing. I then tried hammering out the inner bearing and seal using a large socket on an extension. The old inner seal was practically welded to the hub and it took immense hammering force to pound it out. This was exactly the same situation for both hubs. It eventually came out but the inner seal destroyed as did one of the bearings which just disintegrated. I am now needing to do a bearing and seal replacement. My observation is that the old 'axle grease' was like thick almost dried glue. Brown in color. As I have read elsewhere it seems this is the original seal grease from the factory and may in fact not be axle grease at all. Anyway thanks for your video but I wanted to share my personal experience in case others also find it doesn't go quite as easily as your video depicted for you in your case.

Great video thanks